First wine bloggers’ “off” meeting during Vinexpo 2009

Monday, 22 June 2009 11am to 7pm Château Luchey Halde (Mérignac)

Winemaking and vine growing bloggers from across Europe will step onto the other side of the screen, and for the first time they will meet their readers for a tasting of their wines, in a friendly and passionate atmosphere. “Wine and the Net” tasting The “Wine and the Net” tasting brings together for the first time winemakers with very different backgrounds. French, Italian, Portuguese, German or American, some are recent converts to winemaking, others are from traditional winemaking families; some grow vines organically, others practice conventional agriculture. Most of them know each other only through their blogs. United by a common passion Twenty blogger-winemakers from France, Germany, Italy and Portugal will meet “off” Vinexpo to showcase their blogs and their wines on Monday 22 June 2009 from 11 am to 7 pm, at the Château Luchey Halde in Mérignac. Wine professionals and readers of the blogosphere will get together for a friendly meeting about Wine and the Web. Who are these winemaker bloggers? Winemakers by profession, they share a passion for their work and a willingness to share that passion. They will gather around the idea of “inviting wine lovers, novices and interested people to regularly share the experience and the authenticity of the work of winemakers.” These winemaking bloggers have chosen the occasion of this global showcase to get closer to people who enjoy their wines as much as their writing. Quite naturally all of this is described on a common blog set up for the event: http://blogsetvignerons.over-blog.com for your reservation, please send an email indicating your name and the number of persons to come to: blogsetvignerons@hotmail.fr

The twenty two participating winemaker-bloggers are: – Bruno et Claudie Bilancini – Tirecul la Gravière (Monbazillac) http://tirecul.canalblog.com – Francis Boulard – Champagne Raymond Boulard et Fils (Champagne) www.vigneron-champagne.com – Marc Dalbavie – Domaine de la Voie Blanche (Périgord) www.domaine-voie-blanche.com/blog – Sébastien David – Domaine Sébastien David (Loire) http://patrimoinesd.canalblog.com – Thibault Despagne – Despagne (Bordeaux) http://blog.despagne.fr – Cyril Dubrey (Bordeaux) http://dubrey.blogspot.com – Emmanuelle Dupéré et Laurent Barrera (Provence) www.blogduperebarrera.com – Cyril Geffard, Vincent Guilbaud – Domaine des Pierrettes (Loire) www.domainedespierrettes.fr/blog – David Lelièvre – Domaine Lelièvre (Côtes de Toul) www.vins-lelievre.com/blog – Amy Lilliard – Domaine de la Gramière (Côtes du Rhône) http://lagramiere.typepad.com/francais, www.lagramiere.typepad.com anglais – Samuel Megnan – Domaine Aloha (Fiefs Vendéens) www.domaine-aloha.com – Yvon Minvielle – Château Lagarette (Bordeaux) http://chateaulagarette.blogspot.com – Valérye Mordelet – Les Loges de la Folie (Loire) www.les-loges-de-la-folie.com – Ivo Pagès S’Alqueria – Emporda – Espagne http://vinyaivo.wordpress.com/ – Gianpaolo Paglia (Italie) http://poggioargentiera.com anglais – Isabelle Perraud – Cotes de la Molière (Beaujolais) http://cotes-de-la-moliere.com/mon-blog – Oscar Quevedo (Portugal) http://quevedoportwine.com anglais – Iris Rutz-Rudel – Domaine Lisson (Langedoc) http://lisson.over-blog.com, http://weingut-lisson.over-blog.com allemand – Annie Sauvat – Domaine Sauvat Claude et Annie (Auvergne) www.sauvat-vins.com/weblog -Laureano Serres Montagut http://laureanoserres.wordpress.com/ – Benoît Tarlant – Champagne Tarlant (Champagne) www.champagne-blog.com – Charles Traonouëz – Château Malromé (Bordeaux) http://malrome.over-blog.com Contact: Emmanuelle Dupéré, blogsetvignerons@hotmail.fr 06 21 25 15 99

Access: Château Luchey Halde 17 Avenue du Maréchal Joffre 33 – Mérignac Tram Line A – Stop Arlac Fountain Rocade exit 12 – Direction Bordeaux

Bordeaux Wine Region ‘Portes Ouvertes’ 2009

5 et 6 février Blaye au comptoir 50aine de restaurants de Bordeaux Syndicat Viticole des Côtes de Blaye 05 56 42 91 19

31 mars au 2 avril SEMAINE DES PRIMEURS Gironde

4 et 5 avril Printemps des Vins de Blaye Premières Côtes de Blaye Syndicat Viticole des Côtes de Blaye 05 56 42 91 19

4 et 5 avril Portes Ouvertes en Médoc Médoc, Haut Médoc et Communales Maison du Tourisme et du Vin de Pauillac 05 56 59 03 08

19 avril Portes Ouvertes à Pomerol Pomerol Syndicat Viticole de Pomerol 05 57 25 06 88

25 et 26 avril Portes Ouvertes à Lalande-de-Pomerol Lalande de Pomerol Syndicat Viticole de Lalande-de-Pomerol 05 57 25 21 60

Mai 1er, 2 et 3 mai Saint-Emilion – Les Châteaux ouvrent leurs portes Saint-Emilion, Lussac et Puisseguin Conseil des Vins de Saint-Emilion 05 57 55 50 50 9

mai Marathon des 1eres Côtes de Blaye Premières Côtes de Blaye Syndicat Viticole des Côtes de Blaye 05 56 42 91 19 9

10 mai Portes Ouvertes en Côtes de Bourg Côtes de Bourg Syndicat Viticole des Côtes de Bourg 05 57 94 80 20 16 et 17 mai Vayres la Vie ! Vayres le Vin ! Château de Vayres Syndicat Viticole des Graves de Vayres 05 57 74 86 42

16 et 17 mai Portes Ouvertes en Côtes de St Macaire Côtes de St Macaire Syndicat Viticole des Côtes de St Macaire 05 56 46 40 20

16 et 17 mai 4e Week-End des Grand Amateurs Bordeaux Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux 05 56 51 91 91

 30 et 31 mai Portes Ouvertes en 1eres Côtes de Bordeaux et Cadillac Premières Côtes de Bordeaux et Cadillac Syndicat Viticole des Premières Côtes de Bordeaux 05 57 98 19 20

Juin 13 et 14 juin Sainte-Croix-du-Mont en 4 saisons Sainte-Croix-du-Mont Sophie Guéant, Lucile Aigron 06 61 82 26 22

du 21 au 25 juin VINEXPO Bordeaux Lac – Parc des Expositions Vinexpo 05 56 56 00 22 19,

20 et 21 juin Fêtons Saint-Emilion ! Saint-Emilion, Lussac et Puisseguin Conseil des Vins de Saint-Emilion 05 57 55 50 50

Juillet non déterminé Portes Ouvertes crus artisans du Médoc Médoc Syndicat des crus artisans du Médoc 05 56 59 00 85

14 juillet Trail en Côtes de Bourg Côtes de Bourg Syndicat Viticole des Côtes de Bourg 05 57 94 80 20

12 et 13 septembre Ban des Vendanges de la Jurade de Saint-Emilion Saint-Emilion, Lussac et Puisseguin Conseil des Vins de Saint-Emilion 05 57 55 50 50

11 octobre Portes Ouvertes dans les Graves de Vayres Graves de Vayres Syndicat Viticole des Graves de Vayres 05 57 74 86 42

17 et 18 octobre Portes Ouvertes dans les Graves Graves Syndicat Viticole des Graves 05 56 27 09 25

24 et 25 octobre Portes ouvertes à Fronsac Fronsac Conseil des Vins de Fronsac 05 57 51 80 51

7, 8 et 11 novembre Portes Ouvertes de Sauternes et Barsac Sauternes et Barsac ODG de Sauternes & Barsac 05 56 76 60 37

28 et 29 novembre Portes Ouvertes de Loupiac, “Loupiac & Foie Gras” Loupiac Syndicat Viticole de Loupiac 05 56 62 67 18

Décembre 5 et 6 décembre Portes Ouvertes de Pessac-Léognan Pessac-Léognan Syndicat viticole de Pessac-Léognan 05 56 00 21 90 5,

12 et 19 décembre Samedis gourmands à Planète Bordeaux Planète Bordeaux, à Beychac Maison des Bx et Bx Supérieur 05 57 97 19 38

Hail hits vineyards in Bordeaux

Some  hot and humid weather was followed by electric storms on Tuesday 12th May at about four in the morning in Bordeaux and environs. Hail stones as large as golf stones ravaged the vineyards in St Emilion, Graves, Blaye  and Margaux. The young buds, just becoming well established and in the areas worst hit the vines have been sliced off as  if by a knife leaving in some cases only a stump of new growth on the old wood. Any leaves remaining have been slashed and lacerated which, if they recover, will have reduced potential to make sugar for the plant and eventual grapes. No-one knows what the effect will be on the ultimate yields. Conditions like this have not been seen for over twenty years.

With the continuing rain and inclement weather, sulphiting the vineyards to help heal the wounded vines is difficult. Buds that have been destroyed will not flower or bear fruit so yields will be reduced again this year in these areas. Not only will it affect this next harvest but possibly the next year too if the ‘cot’ bud that is left for the following year has been damaged too. Some producers have assurance protection against hail as it can strike at any time but not all. Producers were relieved that the frost prone period seemed to be behind them and 2009 yields would not be reduced due to frost. Little did they know what nature had up her sleeve. Fombrauge in St Christophe des Bardes is said to have lost a large part of their future yield being at the epicenter of the storms which swept across the eastern parts of St Emilion appellation.

2008 the year to change Bordeaux?

2008 is deemed by all to be better than 2007 and 2006 and yet prices are being reduced by half. Why? Because of the financial climate and because of the run of ‘average’ cooler vintages since 2005. That was the vintage of the century with wonderful wines being produced throughout the region, Grand Cru Classe and Petits chateaux alike. The price for 2005 went up, understandably. Prices did not really come down that much for the next two vintages. That is where the problem started. Merchants continued to buy and now with the new reduced 2008 the 2006 and particularly 2007s are unsellable at their high prices. Don’t forget that the 2007 are still sleeping soundly in barrel in the producer’s cellars unaware of their high price tag that no-one feels is worth it. They will be bottled and shipped later this year. Many merchants are looking at a good 2008 price and a re-look at the prices paid for 2007 – buy one get one free idea! Are these conditions that special to change the Bordeaux Market Place? Or have we seen them before in 1997 for example. Is is history repeating itself or will the closed system of the Grand Cru Classe selling only through merchants (take 30%) and firstly through courtiers (take 2%) crack this year?

Negociants in Bordeaux have massive stocks that have not been sold bought at high prices. One merchant told me he had 14 million euro worth of stocks particularly 2006 and 2007. They are having to devalue their inventories and sell whereever possible to release some cash to make purchases of the 2008s!

Smaller chateaux have different problems. The same negociants are taking lower quantities to sell of Cru Bourgeois or other petits chateaux properties. France is not the market is once was and so suddenly producers in their thusands are looking at developing export markets themselves. Urgently. Many without good English, many with thousands of cases of stocks from the vintage of 2000.

Then we have the ‘Parker Effect’ which has just come into play. Many producers had already released prices and not accounted for Parker heralding 2008 as good as 2000 or 2005 in some instances. Here are some of his favorite wines in 2008; Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Cos d’Estournel, Haut Brion, Lafite, Latour, Leoville Barton, Montrose, Margaux, Palmer, Mouton, Pape Clement, Petrus, Troplong Mondot…………Those who had already released prices had their prices soar. Who benefits but the negociant who has not sold or the next in line if they have! Not the producer.

According to Simon Staples of Berry Bros (ww.bbr.com) Parker was the only one to rave about the 2003 vintage and was lukewarm about the 2005 vintage. So perhaps it is not such a good omen for 2008.

We’ll see.

Second Wines from Top Bordeaux Chateaux: verdict

I meet every month or two with a group of women who work in and around the Bordeaux Wine Trade (yes they do exist in this male dominated domain)  for a convivial wine tasting. Round at someone’s house, a few bites to eat and a tasting that runs along the lines of; each person brings a bottle according to a theme and we taste the wines blind, and then the wine is presented with background information by the ‘owner’.

The  theme for this evening was ‘Second Wines’. A quick history and on how the concept of second wines developed from a special guest for the evening, Veronique Sanders, Director of Ch Haut Bailly, Grand Cru Classe Pessac Leognan. The earliest second wine recorded was in 1874 and was that of Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (not sure of the name). The next was in 1908 and that was Pavillon of Ch Margaux. In 1967 the second wine of Haut Bailly was produced for the first time some 20 years before second wines became a common phenomena in Bordeaux (mid to late eighties). Veronique explained the concept of producing Haut Bailly’s second wind, La Parde;

La Parde de Haut Bailly; the second wine of Haut Bailly

This is made up predominantly from the wine from the young vines from four years to ten to 15 years of age. In fact the wine from the  first three year’s of production goes in the Grand Vin – Ch Haut Bailly. During this time the balance between the amount of leaves and fruit produced is perfect. The resulting wine is fresh, fruity and concentrated.  After this period the wine becomes a little diluted as the vine matures moving closer to full production.

The second wine is aged for a shorter time in oak and the percentage of the powerful new oak is reduced too. 16 to 18 months for the Grand Vin and only 12 months for the second wine. It is a lighter wine so need to be treated as such. Since 1987 a third wine has been produced (generic Pessac Leognan).

Second wines represent good value for money but are also according to Veronique a very good window of the vintage providing a good idea of how the vintage is developing and its characteristics.

The Tasting Second Wines at Gerda Beziade’s

Note that second wines do not have the right to be called ‘chateau’

2006 Fief de la Grange (second wine of Chateau Lagrange, GCC St Julien)

Little green no the nose with cherry notes. Supple and fresh in the mouth. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. All made from young vines. Better known today then its first wine. Lot of replanting with the vineyard area going from 70 to 115 ha recently – hence the dominance of Fief!

2004 La Closerie de Fourtet (Second wine of Clos Fourtet St Emilion Premier Cru Classe)

One of the favorites of the evening. 85% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Created in 1999 wen the Cuvelier family bought the property. Stephane Derenoncourt is the wine consultant. I seule tenance (one vineyard area in one block). Little closed with slight undergrowth notes but opened up into a wine of silky elegance and length.

2005 Sirene de Giscours (Second Wine of Ch Giscours GCC Margaux)

Deep in colour and big and masculine on th plate. Very powerful and proud to be! Did not taste like a second wine at all. We thought perhaps from Pauillac or St Estephe. Big structure and sweet ripe fruit. Very surprised when it was revealed to be a margaux and made by the husband of Veronique! Excellent value for money. Well worth searching out. About 20 euro per bottle.

2002 Clos du Marquis (Second Wine? not really of Ch Leoville Lascases GCC, St Julien)

30 years average age. 8000 planting density. Yield 42-50 hl/ha. 12 to 20 days of fermentaion and maceration in wood, concrete and stainless steel. 12 to 24 months ageing in 50 to 100% new oak. No fining or filtration. Production of 240,000 bottles

This older wine had an older nose of mineral, stones, a little ‘menthole’/mintiness, nice balance between alcohol and acidity remainin. ‘Croquante’. Still fresh. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 13 cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot.  Interesting to taste an older second wine. Not generally for keeping.

2001 La Bahans de Haut Brion (Second Wine of Ch Haut Brion, First Growth Pessac Leognan)

I loved this wine

2005 Les Aromes de Pavie (Second Wine of Ch Pavie Premier Grand Cru Classe St Emilion)

2005 La Gravelte de Certan (Second Wine of Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol)

My favorite

2000 Carruaudes de Lafite (Second wine of Ch Lafite, PremierCru Classe Pauillac)

2004 Franc Phelan (Second wine of Ch Phelan Segur St Estephe, Cru Bourgeois)

Verdict: These wines really do stand on their own two feet and in a good year are really superlative and represent excellent value for money. If you see any 2005 second wines, don’t hesitate to buy!

2008 update on what is being said before the primeurs

Just before the Primeurs start next week, here is a synopsis of what is being said by those in the know (producers, negociants in Bordeaux, University of Bordeaux) about the quality of the 2008 harvest and why.

THE 2008 VINTAGE

SPRING

very cold spring

caused delay in flowering and led to frost damage on
the 7th April in Graves, Sauternes and some parts of the Right Bank.

SUMMER
early summer Rain
There was lots of rain until the end of June which led to widespread
mildew and caused a difficult flowering, especially for the Merlots
which suffered a great deal from shatter and incorrect berry set.

Generally cold and unsettled summer  (like 2007) but low rainfall
only the vintages 2000, 2003 and 2005 had a lower amount of summer rain
than 2008.

·        Very hot July
last half of August turned out to be cool, cloudy and rainy. The rain helped the berries change color but also swelled the berries and raised the risk of rot (and mildew). Continued delay of about two weeks (started with cold weather during flowering).

AUTUMN Glorious ‘Indian summer’
September arrived with warm, breezy days.
Sun did return around the 14th September it also brought with it the healthy north wind which is dry and cool and healthy.

This allowed many to hold off picking well into October to benefit from the gorgeous ‘Indian summer’ conditions

The quality of the Cabernet Sauvignon which loves warm, light days and cool nights to develop have been an additional surprise to the Médoc producers worried as always that a late harvest will result in not fully developed polyphenols.

WHEN TO PICK?
Very late harvest
Like 2007, growers who had done their vineyard work properly and had lower yields with well aired, well spaced bunches could wait (leaf pulling/plucking and green harvest).

The sugar levels were excellent, the phenolic levels were good but the acidity was still too high by the middle of September. Not until last week of September that growers felt that sufficient ripeness had been achieved.

Harvesting decision made by weather forecast threatening rain.

CONCLUSION AT HARVEST

Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon equally good (neither right or left bank better. Merlot harvested too early to really benefit from the Autumn sun though.

·        Good phenolics;

ie       good colour high level anthocyanes

ie       and high IPTs (good tannin levels)

·        Aromatic fragrances

·        High acidity balanced by high alcohol levels. High malic acid levels in the grapes corrected by the malolactic fermentation

·        Rich wines, with freshness, aromatic expression and
 balance

Tiny quantities average 20:25% less up to 40%

Judged to be better than 2006 and 2007

Whites good and sweet wines too but tiny quantities

 

VIEW ON THE VINTAGE SINCE HARVEST

Comparing the 2007 and the 2008 vintage
Bill Blatch, Vintex

“Nobody’s going to believe it, and I’m not making this up, but 2008 in
Bordeaux is rather a good vintage.”

“…Meteorologically, 2008 looks to be the identical twin vintage of
2007…So how come the wines of 2007, whilst retaining the same
late-harvest characteristics of relatively high acidity, had turned out so radically different from those of 2008, the former (2007) bright, fruit-driven, fine-styled and elegant, the latter (2008) darker, richer, more generous and more tannic? Even to the growers, the outcome came as something of a surprise. They were expecting 12.5º and suddenly it all came in at 14°; anthocyanin counts of 7-800 and they got over 1,000; IPTs (tannin measure) of 50 and they ended up often over 90.

The answer seems to lie, despite the apparent similarities, in the
vine’s radically different behaviour in 2008 compared with 2007. In 2007, it had got off to an early and rapid start, with a quick early budding, followed by an early, if erratic, flowering; and it was only then that it got slowed down by the dreary summer months, and then achieving a flash last-minute ripening in those fine September days.

2008 was entirely different: from the beginning of the season right up to the end, the vine never did anything fast all year; it took its time over all the stages; it seemed lazy, didn’t want to bud, grow leaves, flower or do anything at speed. Consequently, it had  very slow cycles, which, despite the strain put on it by the April frost, by the excess of water in May and by a mediocre summer, allowed it to perform more effective ripening transformations in its grapes all very gradually and very inconspicuously. ..

…(2008 was) a very late harvest that everyone could finally be proud of. If only its volume had been as satisfactory…Overall, it was the lowest yield since the Great Frost of 1991.”

Paul Pontallier on 2008 Primeurs
‘2008 is in many ways similar to 2004 and 2006. It was a fairly
average summer, but with a wonderful late season. The grapes ripened very well – perhaps they did not reach the extraordinary ripeness of some years, but they showed extremely good concentration, more than in  04 although perhaps less than in 06. The wine itself has a tight texture, good length and while not perhaps the extra dimension of a truly great vintage, it is still an exceptionally good one.’

Denis Dubourdieu, head of the Oenology faculty at Bordeaux University,
compares the vintage to 1988 – a classic, cool climate vintage with
excellent fruit and somewhat stern tannins.

 

 

The Financial Backdrop to the 2008 Primeur Campaign

Never before has there been so much talk about the Primeur system and how it is time for things to change in Bordeaux. The Primeur is a particular Bordeaux phenomenon (although seen minimally elsewhere). This is due to the high percentage of new oak barrels that are needed to age the wine in for a period of 18 to 24 months. These barrels cost in the regionof 600 euro each and hold 325 litres. Most top growths use 100% new oak for the year’s wine.

‘En Primeur’ means selling the wine on the future’s market. The wine is tasted and evaluated this next week (always the first week in April regardless of the lateness of the harvest). Often the final assemblage (blending) has not been completed at this early stage  so samples are specially prepared for the Primeur tasting. The prices are then released in dribs and drabs end May/June. Chateaux wait to see what they neighbours are offering. The baby wine is bought while it is still in barrel and will not be ready to be bottled and shipped for another year and a half. This year importers such as Berry Bros & Rudd (over 200 year old wine merchants to the Queen) are seeking financial reassurances from the negociants in Bordeaux for the frst time in history.

Laurent Ehrmann Barriere Freres;

“All the classified growths will need to be very very attentive to their
pricing.

The fact that the quality is better than 2007, or that the yields were
low, is absolutely of secondary importance this year, and I don’t think
there is one person in the distribution chain or a private buyer who
cares.

It is now time to return to the fundamentals of finding the right
price. The en primeur window of opportunity is a spectacular one, and
if a large number of wineries aren’t capable of coming to the meeting
point, then there may be no campaign, or a half campaign.’

Bordeaux has shown it is capable of adjusting to market realities –
look at the 2004 first growths at 100 euros a bottle. In 1991 also
there were significant price reductions downwards, and again in 2002.
There may be interia, but Bordeaux does usually respond in the end.

‘Of the first growths, Mouton is historically market sensitive and
helps the others to come around to certain market realities.’

There have been calls for careful thinking of timing and pricing of the release particularly the First Growths to lead the way (even as early as immediately after the tastings)

Cesar Compadre (Sudouest local Bordeaux Newspaper);

‘The speculative bubble of Bordeaux’s great wines is currently
exploding,’ Cesar Compadre

The economic downturn, inflated pricing and lack of interest in recent vintages could also herald a significant shift in the power-politics of the region.

Wine sales between Bordeaux properties and negociants dropped by over a third in the last five months of 2008, reported Compadre in the Sud-Ouest last month. The wine market was ’stuck in a ditch’, said the newspaper.

According to news agency Reuters, the value of Vintage Wine Fund, one of the largest wine investment funds in the world specialising in Bordeaux, fell 33% last year.

This year could also see the end of the dominance of the chateaux over the negociants and wine merchants. Previously, the former dictated the price of their wines. Now, Compadre said, there was a great amount of discussion between negociants and proprietors over the pricing of the 2008 wines.

Other Factors:

·        Sterling 15% weaker than last year

·        Still have abundant stocks of 2006 and 2007

·        UK negociants looking for pricing to return to prices between 2001 and
2004 (ideally 2002) ie 125 and 150 euro (tax inclusive) for firsts, and 60 to 75 euro for seconds (at least for first phase to gauge the reaction). 2007 average year but  prices stayed high

Haut Brion 05: 472 euro 06: 450 euro 07: 318 euro

Cheval Blanc 05: 622 euro 06: 622 euro 07: 466 euro

Mouton 05:480 euro 06: 450 euro 07: 318 euro

·        Normally 85% Grand Cru Classe sold en primeur (fewer forecasted to attend)

Learning to Prune the Bordeaux way

I realised a life-long ambition last week – to learn to prune a vine. It is a very important step in the life cycle of the vine and determines how many bunches of grapes will be produced.

The sun beat down on the old knarled Cabernet Sauvignon vines. The idea is to leave a ‘cot’ which will become next year’s fruitbearing arm the closest to the ground as possible and cut it short leaving one bud. Then to find an ‘aste’, which will be the arm that will produce this year’s fruit. It needs to be able to be easily bent in the direction of the row and is the lowest to the ground after the ‘cot’. You leave six buds and cut the seventh off and cut the branch after that. The ‘women’ then go through the rows pulling out the dead wood and bending (plier) the aste branch down onto the wires.

The dead wood is cut away leaving the vine stump with its very short ‘cot’ of one bud and the longer six bud ‘aste’. This system is Guyot Simple. If you have two ‘astes’ two arms than the system is Guyot Double and you leave two cots for next year’s fruit too. You still have the same number of buds ie three or four on each ‘aste’.

All pruning has been pretty much completed in Bordeaux as the weather is heating up (early 20s) and the sap which resides in the roots of the vine during the winter months is coming up into the plant itself causing the vine to weep (le pleur) when it is cut.

Cutting the branches back short limits the number of bunches of grapes that the vine will produce. More concentration in fewer grapes. This is the goal. It is less wasteful to do this by pruning rather than by green harvesting in the Summer where the excess and late maturing bunches are removed. The only problem with limiting the production at the early stage of the cycle is if there is a late frost. Last year there was a frost on April 6th which damaged buds and was a factor which lead to the low yields in 2008.

Commanderie du Bontemps St Vincent Lunch

The Commanderie du Bontemps (Medoc, Graves, Sauternes and Barsac) celebrated the Fete de Saint Vincent on 18th January with a lunch in the centre of Bordeaux, the first time in fifty-six years.

The lunch was proceeded by Mass at the Cathedral of St Andre with a procession of the Commanderie from the Town Hall carrying the stautue of St Vincent and a barrel of wine (not sure if this came from the Medoc, Graves, Barsac or Sauternes?).

I was nominated by Chateau Haut Bailly, Grand Cru Classe of Graves for its wonderful red wine, to be intronised and to receive the title of ‘Commadeur d’Honneur’. This involved standing up in front of the six hundred people present (mostly teams of people who worked for different chateaux from owners to tractor drivers), listening to my life’s achievements, tasting a glass of wine and making a positive comment (not difficult as it was 2001 Cantemerle – “beaucoup de fraicheur et tanins soyeux”), being enrobed and accepting a gold pin to wear with honour!

Each table was hosted by a different chateau who brought their wines from their own property. Haut Bailly brought the 1999 vintage. The idea is then to exchange your bottles with your neighbours to end up with an interesting array to try. Here is our selection magnificently managed by Caroline Perromat, in charge of Wine Tourism at Chateau Haut Bailly and who works closely with Veronique Sanders who runs the Cru Classe chateau (both present at the lunch).

2006 Chateau Carbonnieux Grand Cru Classe Pessac Leognan Blanc - intense flavours of citrus fruits with complex rich palate but  with taste bud popping freshness

2003 Chateau Paloumey, Cru Bourgeois Medoc – smokey, light and fresh

2004 Chateau Luchey Halde – sweet oaky nose, bit rustic

*1999 Chateau Haut Bailly, Grand Cru Classe Pessac Leognan – creamy and minty freshness, silky, delicate and very elegant

2004 Marquis de Terme, Margaux – thin and light, bit acidic

2003 Chateau d’Issan – fresh considering the vintage with light fruit and soft tannins, pleasant but lighweight

2001 Chateau Giscours – fresh cherry still on this powerful wine the tannins of which are melting and softening. Together and smooth.

2001 Brainaire Ducru - normally one of my favorite chateaux and favorite vintages, bit disappointed by this light wine that was a seemed a little thin

*1999 Chateau Leoville Barton – absolutely delicious creamy wine with its black cherry fruit and sweet smooth tannins locked together to give an exquisite wine. Classic claret at its elegant best.

1998 Chateau Le Tertre – Perfumed sweetness but also undergrowth notes. Light wine but still enjoyable. Apparently Michel Rolland helped with this vintage.

2002 Chateau Lagrange - found quite an odd nows but lovely sweetness on the palate

2001 Chateau Lynch Bages

Smokey notes with smooth black fruit and a coffee finish. Medium weight

2004 Chateau Montrose

Blockbuster wine, very deep black in colour with still the purple hue of youth. Intense spicy nose of cinnamon and black pepper. Tannins still very firm. Lot of potential to come.

1998 Chateau Clerc Milon

Little over the hill. Nice coffee notes but lot fruit has gone.

2003 Chateau Mouton Rothschild

Grilled, toasty notes (torrefaction) and blackcurranty. Attractive touch of white pepper on the nose. On the palate sweet and thick and smooth.

1996 Pichon Baron

Little over the hill. Still pleasant graphite quality and smooth tannins. Bit thinned out.

2005 Chateau de Myrat

Afraid did not taste this wine from my friend Slanie. Sorry Slanie, perhaps next time.

Napa Women Winemakers exchange with Bordeaux

Last week Bordeaux played host to a group of fifteen women winemakers and vineyard owners from the Napa Valley including Heidi Barrett the winemaker for the cult wine Screaming Eagle. It was infact the return trip of a group of ‘women in wine’from Bordeaux who visited the most coveted new world vineyard in January of last year. The group included the winemaker at first growth Chateau d’Yquem Sandrine Garby and Nicola Allison winemaker at Chateau de Seuil, Graves. The idea of bringing two of the world’s most famous wine regions together was conceived by Sharon Harris of Napa’s Amici Cellars winery during her recent time in Bordeaux when she studied for the University of Bordeaux Tasting Diploma at the Faculty of Oenology. The American wine experts were welcomed at Chateau de Sales on Sunday evening (11th January) with a tasting of a range of Pomerol wines and a visit of the tiny region’s largest producer and grandest chateau. The 2005 vintage was presented by the different proprietors

Chateau de Sales 2005 81% Merlot 11% Cabernet Franc 8% Cabernet Sauvignon Smokey aromatic violets on the nose. Sweet and creamy finishing with notes of coffee. Medium bodied.

Chateau Mazeyre 2005 (Allain Moueix) 80% Merlot 20% Cabernet Franc Smokey tobacco and grilled notes on the nose and palate. Nice concentration medium bodied wine with attractive sucrosity and bitter chocolate finish

Clos Rene 2005 (Jean Marie Garde) 70% Merlot 20% Cabernet Franc 10% Malbec Intense nose of sweet violets. Creamy elegant and thick on the palate.

Chateau Vieux Maillet 2005 (Griet Laviale) Attractive spice, noisette and vanilla. Creamy and weighty in the mouth.

Chateau Gazin 2005 (Nicolas de Baillancourt) 85% Merlot 5% Cabernet Franc 10% Cabernet Sauvignon Dense black colour. Intense nose of black cherry. Complex and silky texture on the palate.

Chateau Fleur Petrus 2005 Aromas of toffee, liquorice and violets. Very intense and fragrant. Intense sucrosity of ripe sweet black cherry on the palate.

Those participating in the exchange from Bordeaux:

Nicola Allison – Chateau du Seuil, Graves

Barbara Engerer – Chateau Paloumey, Medoc

Caroline Frey – Chateau La Lagune

Sandrine Garby – Chateau d’Yquem, Sauternes

Griet Laviale – Chatau Franc-Mayne

Laure de Lambert des Granges – Chateau Sigalas Rabaud

Marie-Laure Lurton – Chateau Tour Bessan

Lyn Maltus – Chateau Teyssier

Wendy Narby – Ecole du Vin du CIVB

Myriam Ruer – Wineprod

Laurence Ters – Chateau Franc Mayne

Sophie Thierry – Chateau Kirwan

Those participating in the exchange from the Nap Valley:

Jane Ballentine – William Cole

Heidi Barrett – La sirena

Sandy Belcher – Arrns Family Winery

Carissa Chappellet – Chappellet Winery

Carolyn Duryea Smith – Hourglass

Ursula Hermacinski – Screaming Eagle

Sharon Harris – Amici Cellars

Erin Lail – Lail Vineyards

Pavi Lawson – Pavi Wines Cherie Melka – Melka Wines

Beth Milliken – Spotteswoode Winery

Mary Novak – Spotteswood Winery

Suzanne Pavitt – Phifer Pavitt Wines

Pam Starr – Crocker and Starr

Pierrette Titus – Titus Vineyards

Michele Torres – Trincharo Family Vineyards